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Writer's picture32 Paws Training

Puppy Prep


Welcome to puppyhood!

It is filled with puppy breath, snuggles, and so much cuteness. It also comes with a number of other things that are sometimes unexpected. Razor sharp teeth which they use on everything and the inability to hold their bladder for more than a few hours, are just a few common complaints we often hear.


Marshall is 10 weeks old learning all about how to use his teeth on toys instead of shoes and skin.


The first thing you will probably notice are the razor sharp teeth on your skin, ankles, shoes, and more. It is important to shape the behavior you want as soon as the gnawing starts. We typically recommend redirecting puppy teeth to appropriate toys any time they touch the skin. (Some will allow the puppy to bite until it hurts, but we don't recommend this)

These are great for catching their attention with movement and introducing tug if you want that game in your toolbox. We have these in spots where most of the biting/nibbling occurs. This could be great to pull out when you want to sit and watch tv on the couch without it being picked at, or your arms/hands being bothered.

We love using Kong to keep puppies busy when we can't be completely focused at the time. You can use to help build value when you leave for work or when crating/puppy pen time. Filling with treats or kibble is effective in creating a positive association with a situation that may be difficult for the puppy at first.

We like using squeaky balls/toys to help catch attention and build up a reliable game of fetch. Fetch is an excellent outlet mentally and physically for puppies and adults.

All the toys above are not indestructible and we only use when someone is watching.

Age and Breed factor in to what toys can be left out all the time when not attended. Our house has always been full of aggressive chewers, so we typically only leave Nylabones and Antlers out when not watching. We save all the other toys for when we are home and engaged.

Freya at 16 weeks has taken perfectly to her crate already.

Puppy Proofing is next on the list of must dos for bringing a puppy home. This looks different for every home. Some homes use playpens, crates, or baby gates. The areas where puppy is allowed needs to be free of anything you aren't willing to lose to puppy teeth exploring.

Play pens are effective in creating a space that is free of all the things the puppy doesn't need to have access to. These work great for open floor plans where baby gates aren't a good option. The playpen should be used for times when puppy can't be watched. This tactic helps reduce accidents and speeds the house training process along. If you have a large breed you will more than likely need a topper to prevent them from climbing out.

Baby gates are excellent to mark off areas that are not puppy proofed until they graduate to free roam of the house.

Crates can be an excellent tool to manage puppyhood. We recommend building value with the crate when first introducing by adding a Kong, long lasting chew, or pairing feed time in the crate. We also recommend short time frames so they don't get overly stressed with it. Crate training can help with travel, house training, groom visits, and vet visits. We use the crate until the puppy or dog completes house training and graduates from chewing inappropriate items.

We briefly discussed house training above. It is almost inevitable to have accidents when puppies first come home. It is imperative to use an enzyme based cleaner to remove stains and prevent them from reoccurring. We have fostered alot of puppies over the last 12 years and Nature's Miracle is the product we have found to be most effective. We also use all the management mentioned above and stick to a strict feed and potty schedule. We use the number of months old the puppy is to determine the number of hours they can hold at a time.

Last items on the list are a harness, collar, short leash, and long leash. We never recommend a retractable leash. We introduce a collar on the first day so there is identification incase of an accidental escape. When leash walking we start with a harness, because the pressure of a collar is sometimes too much for a puppy in the beginning. If you have a puller we prefer the front clip harness. We use the short leash to teach loose leash walking and a longline helps prepare for reliable recall.

Lady is approximately 5 months and starting to push boundaries off leash so we are introducing a longline to help create a more reliable recall when off leash opportunities arise.

Puppies are absolutely adorable and much more enjoyable when there is less frustration involved. It is our job to shape the pups into wonderful adults. Management is a huge part of this process. Be proactive instead of reactive. It makes it so much easier.

As a force free dog trainer, I am constantly asked, "well...what do YOU use for your dogs?" These are the products I used with our 9 dogs and all the foster pups that crossed into our home. Full disclosure- as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

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